John Deere

John Deere Clutch

How to Repair your John Deere Hand Clutch

Tired of grinding the hand clutch on your two cylinder Deere tractor? Do not worry, the design specs of these tractors allows for relatively easy access and repair of the John Deere clutch. Unlike with many other tractors. the clutch on the lay down John Deere tractors needs no splitting of the rear end of the tractor from the torque tube, to reach the clutch mechanism. Built in Waterloo Iowa these tractors are referred to as "lay downs" by some because the engine has horizontally opposed cylinders. Waterloo built 2 cylinder tractors including the A, B, D, G, GP, H, R, 50, 60, 70, 80, 520, 530, 620, 630, 720, 730, 820, 830 and variations. To get to the clutch detach the clutch cover from the side of the tractor. These covers are held by compressions and likely dented as a result of the force necessary to remove and install the clutch cover. If a new clutch cover is needed check out the clutch covers at Steiner Tractor Parts (STP).

Their most in demand cover is the JDS543 which fits with late models A and G up through the 630 and 730 tractors. After you take it off you will need to disassemble the clutch. For instructions it is best to consult your manual. If you do not have one STP can help. Manuals are available on their web site: Steiner Tractor Parts. Once apart, take a look at the clutch facings and bonded clutch discs. These pieces will wear out as they bear the friction that engages the transmission. After inspection, examine the teeth on the slider disc(s) and the clutch driver for wear or damage. Either one or two slider discs are used, depending on the model.

Replace as needed. Next inspect the clutch dogs, springs, T-bolts and the slotted hex nuts for wear or damage. The belt pulley brake lining is another high wear item. Make sure to inspect the lining for wear. Lastly if the hand clutch has too much play then you may need to replace the clutch lever pivot bushing and possibly the pivot bolt. Good thing Steiner Tractor Parts (STP) stocks a comprehensive selection of drivers, discs, clutch facings and covers, bonded linings, T-bolts, clutch dogs, springs, slotted hex nuts, pivot bolts and clutch lever pivot bushings along with the belt pulley lining. With online convenience and low pricing STP is a clutch resource for John Deere tractors.

Am I eligible for a tax write off buying a JD Gator for work as an employee?
I'm just an employee. I'm not self-employed, I do not have my own business, or anything of that nature. I work at a small local university. I purchased a brand new John Deere Gator Utility Vehicle to use at work myself for around $5500. I use it at work on a regular basis and it stays at our maintenance shop. I don't bring it home. Am I eligible to write this off as a business expense since I purchased this equipment to use at work? If so, must I itemize my taxes to write it off or can I use the standard deduction form and include this as a business expense? If it must itemize my taxes, is it worth the time to itemize my taxes for this one $5,500 purchase? In case it helps, I'm 9 months into my first year of 'full time' employment. I make around $21,000 a year, not including any overtime, and through the time I've worked, I paid in roughly $1,600 in FIT. NOTE: If more information is needed, just let me know and I'll post whatever is requested.

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John Deere Gator oil pressure light comes on only during idle?
The Gator 620i runs and idles like it's brand new, but after it warms up, if you let it idle the oil pressure light will flicker. It will almost be totally illuminated, but it's like a fluorescent light with a ghost in it. If i feather the throttle, the light dims, and if I moderately throttle it, the light goes away. I was told by a buddy that has done a lot of work with Gators that over the winter, the oil light will come on if there's condensation in the gas, and that it can be prevented using Heet. I don't quite get how a 4 cycle engine can do this, but I'm trusting him for now. The oil was changed in September and still looks clean and at the right level when I checked today. I used the proper dosage of Heet today, drove it around under different throttle levels with some idling in-between, for half an hour. It didn't solve the light issue though. What exactly is going on? Any other suggestions?

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Lots of white smoke coming from exhaust of tractor?
Yesterday I went and started my tractor everything was fine ran it pretty hard through the snow. I got back to the barn, shut it off and went inside. About an hour later went back out started it up and it was fine, but then after about 2 minutes of idling white smoke just began to pour out of it like there was no tomorrow. It didn't have a smell, it was more like steam. I then pulled it foward a little and increased the rpms and it was fine. What could of it been. Oh yeah my tractor is a 1966 John Deere 4020 gas. I did park outside after I ran it but it wasn't snowing. Thanks for all of the answers so far! Forgot to add that when I tried to pull foward I lost all power and killed the tractor

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